I have never had a huge interest in wildlife photography, but an African safari has been near the top of my bucket list. I have been fortunate to be able to do two safari’s, one near Kruger Park in South Africa, and one in Tanzania. These photos will be from Tanzania.
Pat wasn’t excited about going, so I was solo with a small group of photographers. Arriving at the Kilimanjaro Airport near Arusha, Tanzania at 8 PM after a 20 hour series of flights, I was dismayed to learn I had at least an hour’s ride to the hotel. The roads were remarkably busy at that time of the day, as nearly everyone on my flight was also heading to a hotel, awaiting their safari or to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro. Seeing all of their climbing gear, a safari looked like the better option, even with a heavy camera bag. Arusha, a large city in the north of Tanzania, is the gateway to safari destinations, and to Mt. Kilimanjaro, about 60 miles away.
The seven of us photographers met up at the Rivertree Lodge, where I would spend two nights recovering from jet lag. My room was a small cottage with a comfortable bed canopied in mosquito netting. Malaria medication is required in this part of the world. I was more worried about the tsetse flies that I was warned about. Their bite is legendary. We were instructed NOT to bring blue colored clothing, because they are attracted to the color.
Two days later, we’re in a 10 passenger prop plane flying into the Serengeti, landing on a dirt runway in the middle of nowhere. The timing of this trip was to coincide with the wildebeest migration, where some 2 million wildebeest, 200,000 zebras, and 300,000 gazelles join on a 500 mile trek from the south to the north, in search of grass fields newly greened up by Fall rains.
Our home base was a movable camp for just the 7 of us, drivers, cooks, and camp help. My tent was not luxurious, but comfortable. Hot water, heated by camp staff and then hoisted above my shower stall allow for a hot shower that lasts about 3 minutes. Cold water for washing was placed twice a day in a large pitcher. Toilets were compostable pump types that I could never get used to.
The days began at 5:30 AM, with a small pitcher of hot water for washing up and a pot of coffee delivered outside the tent. 30 minutes later we gathered for a hot breakfast, before setting off for our morning game drive, lasting until around noon. The days were hot and dusty. The animals take a siesta during the high sun, and we did as well. It was the time to recharge camera batteries, download photos, and rest. Our evening game drives started around 3:30 PM. We were required by the National Park guidelines to be back in camp by dark.
Meals were fabulous and cocktail/beer/wine selections were readily available. I tend to request vegetarian meals on trips like this because I am never quite sure what animal the meat comes from! The vegetarian fare was really excellent.
The group leader was primarily interested in photographing “cats”, so we spent a lot of time searching for lions, leopards and cheetahs. It was remarkable how close we could get to the animals. There were never more than 2 photographers in each vehicle, so we had plenty of room to move around to get the best shots. Our drivers were skilled and knowledgeable. They could spot animals in trees, or hiding in tall grass.
Evening temperatures cooled into the 50’s, refreshing after a hot day. Once dinner and socializing was over, we went to our tents, and were not allowed to come out until daylight. Even with cool evenings and a comfortable bed, most nights I didn’t sleep well. Two nights in a row, lions roamed through our camp, close enough that I could hear them breathing. I laid in bed wondering how easy it would be for them to rip through the tent, but they apparently found better food elsewhere! Another night, I awoke thinking we were having a heavy rain, as the tent was shaking. The next morning, we were told a herd of zebra stampeded past our tents. Nights are NOT quiet in the animal kingdom!
As I was sitting just outside my tent one afternoon during break time, this large Olive Baboon, named for their olive colored fur, walked beside my tent, not 6 feet away from me. He/she didn’t seem to be interested in me, as he sauntered away, then climbing into our safari vehicles, searching for any snacks left behind.
Our second camp was about 75 miles north, near the border of Kenya. It was a long drive over rough roads. This new location is where we photographed the wildebeest migration from Tanzania into the Masai Mara in Kenya. The millions of animals cross the Mara River at roughly the same spot each season. Many iconic Great Migration photographs have been made of this treacherous crossing. Herds of 500 to 1,000 gather along one side of the river waiting for some unknown signal that means “cross”. Then they stampede across, body against body. The river is deep enough that they have to swim, and it is filled with dozens of crocodiles. I know this is the cycle of life, but I don’t like seeing animals kill each other. It was plenty brutal, as many were captured by crocodiles. The crazy part is that these herds often cross back over the next day! Wildebeest are not the smartest animals in the Serengeti. With skinny legs, and long shaggy hair on their heads, they are also quite ugly. One driver told me that when God made them, he just took everything he had leftover and put it together into the wildebeest
Tanzania also has a variety of unusual and beautiful birds. Some days we would be driving along a dusty road and come upon a flock of parakeet looking birds, called love birds, or you would spot a colorful water bird. Buzzards and vultures meant that there was a “kill” nearby.
September is a beautiful month in the Serengeti. The land is dry, with tall golden grasses, and perfect sunlight for photographing. This was a trip of a lifetime and one more item checked off my bucket list
Absolutely beautiful pictures. Thank you for sharing
Thank you for sharing these incredible photos! It was wonderful to experience your Safari! It is on our Bucket List also!
These are so incredible! The kids and I enjoyed looking through all of your pictures. Thank you for sharing!!
Once again beautiful pictures from the hands and camera of a very talented photographer. I do need to make one correction!
You slipped my favorite wildlife picture in that was not part of this safari, the lion in tall grass with the hot air balloon in the background
Absolutely incredible pictures!! It was wonderful to look at them & read your comments about your incredible trip. Thanks for sharing!