Well, that’s what my family said newspaper headlines would read when I ended up God knows where! After months of planning a 10 day driving and photographic tour of northern Scotland, my friend, the navigator, canceled at the last minute. As my 69th birthday was approaching, I had a now-or-never feeling, and it took only moments to decide to venture on alone.
Well, that’s what my family said newspaper headlines would read when I ended up God knows where! After months of planning a 10 day driving and photographic tour of northern Scotland, my friend, the navigator, canceled at the last minute. As my 69th birthday was approaching, I had a now-or-never feeling, and it took only moments to decide to venture on alone.
At Inverness, I rented a car with an automatic transmission and audible GPS and got good instruction on how to use it. With some experience at driving on the wrong side of the road, I drove away from the rental establishment feeling confident. I had read stories of the narrow roads in northern Scotland, but soon discovered that major roadways were often just one lane wide for miles at a stretch. That meant keeping my eyes on the road instead of scanning the countryside for photographs I must make.
Oban was my overnight jumping off spot, where I left my car, and boarded the CalMac Ferry for Carsaig on the Isle of Mull. A bus trip up island brought me to the pretty town of Tobermory, whose harbor is lined with brightly painted houses. Staffa Tours runs day long boat trips between here and the uninhabited islands of Staffa and Lunga and I was anxious to be able to explore them on my own.
Fingal’s Cave on Staffa is approachable by water in calm seas. Our small, bobbing boat inched close enough to photograph the entrance to the cave. From the island, the cave can be reached by a narrow and often slippery walkway across the vertical, hexagonal basalt columns that jut up from the water. Legend says that Fingal the Giant, traversed these stones between here and the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland.
Lunga is home to a large colony of Puffins that live on the high point of Harp Rock. These incredibly cute creatures were fearless in the face of cameras, and offered many charming photos. After a long day, arriving back in Tobermory, there was time to share stories and a glass of wine with a couple of photographers I met on the boat.
I was on the road early to arrive at Glenfinnan in time to see the morning Jacobite Steam Train traverse the famous railway viaduct featured in the Harry Potter films. I joined close to 100 other photographers who climbed the hill near the viaduct seeking a good perch to best view the train’s slow approach. As a follower of The Outlander series, I sought out the monument in Glenfinnan which marks the site where Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745 rallied the Jacobite clans in his ill-fated attempt to oust the British from Scotland.
Portree, on the Isle of Skye awaited me, but I couldn’t miss a stop at Eilean Donan Castle on Loch Duich. Most guidebooks call this the most photogenic of all Scottish castles. I got my shot! There are hundreds of stunning viewpoints on the Isle of Skye, but I only had three days. The roads on the island are VERY narrow with poor signage. My wise decision to hire a photography guide for two full days would allow me time to see and photograph more sites than if I wandered on my own. From 5 AM until 10 PM (with a few hours off mid day) Harry drove me, hiked with me, and offered me shooting tips to get some of the best images I have ever made.
A last minute decision led me east of Skye towards Gairloch, where I wanted to explore the remote villages along the coast. A detour to visit the seaside town of Applecross, found me sharing the narrow, winding road with a Sunday bike race. The twenty or so miles took two hours, but spotting a herd of lounging Highland cows was worth it. Their shaggy hair covered faces make them a favorite with photographers. Approaching cautiously, they had little concern for me or the bicyclists speeding by.
I checked off all the “must sees†from my planning list, and discovered unexpected and breathtaking landscapes that left me dreaming of a return visit. Age shouldn’t hinder older people from independent travel. Yes, there were a few hiccups along the way; bumping car mirrors on impossibly narrow passing spots, bouncing off a highway curb on a country road, but no headlines were made! This was a solo adventure I treasure.